Kauai - Lihue

Island of Kauai

What to see - Introduction

No matter where you’re coming from or how you get to Kaua`i, odds are the first town you’ll land in is Lihu`e. Lihu`e means “cold chill,” a reference to the cold winds that blow across the lands. Today, Lihu`e is the home of
Kaua`i’s main airport, the main seaport, Nawiliwili Harbor, and Kaua`i’s largest shopping mall, Kukui Grove Shopping Center. You’ll also find big-box retail stores such as K-Mart, Wal-Mart and Costco here. Lihu`e is the county seat of Kaua`i. The area also includes Nawiliwili Harbor, and the residential towns of Puhi and Hanama`ulu. Lihu`e was originally a small village in the ahupua`a (land district) of Puna. It remained a small town for years. After Captain Cook’s landing in 1778, Waimea was the major port, until sugar became king. Once the sugar industry emerged in the 1800s, it became clear that Lihu`e’s central location would be crucial to the area’s growth.

Kauai

The Lihu`e Sugar Plantation is central to the area’s history. The plantation was established in the late 1840s by Henry Pierce, Supreme Court Justice William Lee and Charles Reed Bishop, businessman and husband of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, who was descended from Hawaiian royalty.

The plantation processed sugar at Lihu`e Mill, starting in 1851. The Lihu`e irrigation ditch was built by William Rice, bringing water from Kilohana Crater. This was the first irrigation ditch project in Hawai`i and it enabled the company to grow significantly over the next few years. The company acquired land at Ahukini and then built the company’s second mill in Hanama`ulu. By the end of the century, the Lihu`e Plantation had 1,600 workers, mostly immigrants. The ditch systems eventually grew to 51 miles.

In the 1940s,WorldWar II had an adverse effect on the industry and Lihu`e Mill was no exception. With labor shortages and blackouts, sugar production became extremely difficult. By the 1950s and ’60s, the plantation camps were closed and turned into subdivision housing. The economy was phasing out sugar and developing tourism as its cash crop. One by one the sugar plantations closed their doors. Lihu`e Plantation was the last to close, in November 2000.

Today, Hanama`ulu has a population of over 3,000, mostly second- and third-generation immigrants from the plantation. Hanama`ulu is also known for Kalepa Ridge. There once was a large heiau called Kalauokamanu where humans were sacrificed. It was destroyed in 1855.

Nawiliwili Harbor was created in the 1930s. At the time, Waimea served as the island’s main port, but since there were no deep waters in the area, Nawiliwili Bay was dredged. A lighthouse was first built on Ninini Point in 1906. It was rebuilt in 1923, which is the structure that still stands today. The lighthouse did have a close call in 1941, when a Japanese submarine attacked the entrance to the harbor. Fortunately, the shells were duds and damage to the area was limited.

Driving west from Lihu`e will take you through the residential area of Puhi. Puhi is home to a number of shops and Kaua`i Community College. Most notably, it is also where you will find Kilohana, a restored plantation estate.

Grove Farm Homestead Museum, 4050 Nawiliwili Road, 808-245-3202, is the restored plantation home and museum of George Wilcox. Wilcox was the son of Hanalei missionaries and went on to become one of the island’s most successful sugar planters, and then a philanthropist. The home was
built byWilcox in 1864. It was turned into a museum in 1978. On the grounds, you’ll find the Wilcox family home, a plantation office, workers’ houses, gardens and livestock. The buildings feature furnishings from that period and a collection of artifacts. Guided tours are Monday, Wednesday and Thursday at 10 am and 1 pm for $5 per person. Reservations are
required.

Kaua`i Museum, 4428 Rice Street, Lihu`e, www.kauaimuseum.org, 808-245-6931. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Admission is $7. Free admission the first Saturday of every month. Guided tours are held on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday at 10:30 am for $10. Call for reservations. The museum is housed in two buildings in downtown Lihu`e. The oldest, the Albert Wilcox Building, was built in 1924 as a public library. At first I didn’t think I would spend too much time in this small space. Much to my surprise, I spent hours combing through the exhibits on
different cultures that have had such a strong influence in Kaua`i: Japanese, Chinese, and Filipino. There’s a collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts such as poi pounders and weapons, furniture from the missionary era and World War II memorabilia. They also have an exhibit, with video, that documents Kaua`i’s natural history from its beginning as a volcano (!), tracing its history to the Polynesian settlers and right up throughWorldWar II. There’s also a contemporary gallery featuring the works of local artists. I highly recommend visiting the museum on a rainy day, or if you are in search of a new and different experience.

Wailua Falls was made famous when it was featured in the opening sequence of Fantasy Island. Ever since then, visitors have flocked to this
80-foot waterfall. The cliff over the pool was once a diving platform for the ali`i (royalty). It’s very easy to see from the side of the road, which makes this your best chance to observe a waterfall without a long hike. To get there, take Highway 56 from Kapa`a to Hanama`ulu. Follow Ma`alo Road in Hanama`ulu for about three miles. The waterfall will be on the right.

The Alekoko, or Menehune, Fishpond is near the Huleia National Wildlife Refuge. Fishponds were built at the time to provide a ready supply of fish in case ocean conditions prevented Hawaiians from fishing in their outrigger canoes. The fishpond gets its name from legends that say the large pond was built about 1,000 years ago by hundreds of Menehune. Stories say
that the pond, which is made from a stone wall 900 feet long and five feet high, was completed in one night. They apparently managed this by lining up in a double row that was 25 miles long, extending to the village of Makaweli, and passing stones from hand to hand.

To see the Menehune Fishpond, drive inland along Hulemalu Road from Niumalu past Nawiliwili Harbor. The road rises above the Huleia Stream. Look for a turnoff and an overlook marked by a Hawai`i Visitor’s Bureau warrior sign.

Huleia National Wildlife Refuge is adjacent to the Menehune Fish Pond. The Huleia Refuge was established in 1973 to provide open, productive wetlands for endangered Hawaiian waterbirds. The 241-acre refuge is in a relatively flat valley along the Huleia River, bordered by a steep, wooded hillside. This land was once used for taro and rice. Thirty-one species of birds, including endangered Hawaiian stilts, coots, moorhens, and ducks, can be found here. Of the 31 species, 18 are introduced, and there are no native mammals reptiles or amphibians. It is believed, however, that the Hawaiian hoary bat might live in this area. The refuge is closed to the public, but it can be viewed from the Menehune Fishpond Overlook.

Kipu Falls is a popular stop for swimming. The falls are fed by the Huleia Stream on its way to Nawiliwili Bay. The pool is surrounded by a 20-foot rock wall. There are a couple of jumping areas and a rope swing, as well as a ladder for you to climb. It doesn’t seem that high up when you’re in the pool but, once you make it to the top, you might feel differently.

If you do go to Kipu Falls, there are a few things you should know. First of all, never, ever dive into the swimming area. Hitting your head on a rock
would be bad. Very bad. Second, reef shoes would come in handy here. The area is full of rocks, which can be quite slippery.

Take Highway 50 west from Lihu`e. Turn left onto Kipu Road and you’ll get to a dirt road just before the bridge. Turn left on the dirt road and take that until you reach the gate. Park outside the gate and you should see a trail that leads to the falls. It’s about a five-minute hike.

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